What is wrong beside the hot hose? We get hot marine in the shower for a few minutes,...
We get hot marine in the shower for a few minutes, consequently it gets cooler.
If you haven't drained your wet heater surrounded by awhile it could be sediment buildup. But if you are only getting a few minutes of hot marine at a time you probably won't be able to flush any out of the dampen heater anyway, so it would be time to replace it. If you own an electric water furnace, try Oldhippie's advice. It newly might be time for a new river heater.
The problem may have one of two cause: the "safety" feature on the shower faucet, or a broken "dip tube" on the dampen heater. To find out, run the hot hose down in your tub and your kitchen sink. If after the shower go cold you still have lots of hot marine at the kitchen sink, then the problem is next to the shower faucet. Turn off the hose down shut-off to the shower (usually behind a panel on the other side of the wall where on earth the shower is) remove the "guts" of the faucet and take it to your favorite hardware store for replacement parts.
If the hose at your kitchen sink gets cool at just about the same time as the shower however, the problem is a broken dip tube surrounded by the heater. Measure the increase of your heater cistern and get its size from the info plate on the side. Take this info to Home Hardware or whomever and buy a new dip tube for nearly $7.00 plus a small roll of Teflon tape. This is a plastic tube next to a pipe fitting on one end.
Turn bad both hot and cold water supplies at the hot river heater. Turn bad the gas or electricity as well. Disconnect the hot river connection on the top of the reservoir (one side will be marked hot). Unscrew the fitting at the top of the reservoir. This is the end of the outdated dip tube (the broken tube is in the container and will stay there lacking a problem). Wrap 3-4 turns of Teflon tape around the threads of your exotic tube in a clockwise direction looking from the top, slide it into the cistern and tighten it in place near a wrench.
Reconnect the hot water pipe to the container (usually via a "universal joint" on the pipe. Turn on the hot and cold hose down supplies. Turn on the gas and electricity. Check for water leak.
You've just save yourself a $75 - $100 service call. (Or worse all the same, an unscrupulous plumber who tells you that you stipulation a whole modern tank installed for $750.00 + tax)
Congratulations.
Answers: I am going to assume you enjoy an electric water boiler. First, how they work. Cold water comes contained by the top and, via the dip tube, is shunted to the bottom of the tank. The lower thermostat (there are, usually, two) kick on and the lower element heat the water contained by the bottom half of the container. If a lot of hot marine is used, and the whole reservoir is cold, the upper thermostat will also kick on to bake the upper half of the cistern. Hot water comes from the top of the container, and out to the faucets. Now to your problem. It won't be the dip tube as, if the tube was broken, cold wet would be coming in to the top of the cistern and you'd have with the sole purpose warm river. Since your problem is hot water, afterwards it gets cold, the lower partly of the tank isn't heat , where the cold river comes in. The hot marine in the top of the cistern is going out first (as it is supposed to do) but, when the top half near the hot water is siphoned past its sell-by date, it gets to the cold hose down in the bottom. SO... Either the thermostat is unpromising, or the element is desperate. You can check these as follows (God this is long, huh?): AFTER TURNING THE BREAKER OFF FOR THE WATER HEATER, AND CHECKING THAT IT IS OFF, remove the two wires that attach the thermostat to the element, at the part. Place the leads of the continuity tester one on respectively of the screws of the feature. there should be continuity in that. If so, next put one of the lead (while keeping the other lead on a screw contained by the element) to the metal tank at the spot where on earth the element screw into the tank. There shouldn't be continuity in attendance. If there is, the thing is broken and must be replaced. If there isn't continuity in that, the element should be ok. If it is ok. subsequent you'll check the thermostat. Place the continuity tester leads , one to respectively screw on the front of the thermostat. and turn the temp. selector back and forth. Continuity should move about on and off, as the switch open and closes. If that doesn't happen, it's the thermostat that have failed. I won't draw from into how to replace the element because it is involved and, best done by a professional. (in certainty, if you're at all dubious, ring up a pro for the testing too). The thermostat would be, unsophisticatedly, self explainatory. Just put it in approaching the one you're replacing is in here. Perhaps take a picture to achieve it right, before removing it. Good luck. Keep surrounded by mind that, both wires going into the tank will be hot, as it uses resistance to bake up. It'll be a 220 amp breaker, or two 110 amp breakers.