Single breaker have no indeterminate voltage? My bedrooms int he house don't have power. I go into...
My bedrooms int he house don't have power. I go into the main breaker and found that the key breaker is at 125.2V and the troubled breaker is at the same from breaker to ground. Neutral to the breaker is at 0V while adjectives the rest are OK at 120V+. I replaced the breaker thinking it was impossible but came across indistinguishable problem with the different one. I have the in one piece attic, two bedrooms, and a bathroom on this breaker and nothing is working.
Answers: By Code, merely the bathroom lighting should be on that circuit; bathroom receptacles are required to be 20 Amps, and if they include the lighting nouns for that bathroom, they shall supply only the loads contained by that bathroom (as long as the other loads total to less than 50% of the total nouns on that circuit). The other option is to hold all bathroom receptacle share a 20 Amp circuit, and keep the lighting separate.
You probably do enjoy an "open neutral" condition. This is collectively caused by a laid-back installer running his circuits by daisy-chaining the receptacles and using the "back-stab" termination on the devices. The NEC requires that adjectives devices be installed so that removing any device from the circuit does not deenergize any other devices on the circuit. By not pigtailing both the grounded (neutral) and ungrounded ("hot") conductor, it is probable that a device somewhere on the circuit had the dull pop out of the back of a receptacle (if it have been the "hot" conductor, probability are it would have made contact beside something it shouldn't have, and the breaker would enjoy tripped). You will have to do a box-to-box turn out, but chances are, it is one of the first devices (it could be at a pale fixture, also) in the circuit; otherwise, you wouldn¡¯t own lost the power to so many areas.
Just be glad that a dull didn't open up on a three-wire, 2 circuit "network", you'd enjoy 2 circuits receiving 240 volts. That would enjoy done some real disrupt.
Another possibility is that you may have lost one of the legs of the ungrounded conductors. Check to see if you acquire 240 Volts across the two ¡°hot¡± service entrance conductors. You should get between 110 and 120 volts between the grounded & ungrounded conductors within the panel, & between 220 & 240 volts between the 2 ungrounded conductors.
My suggestion is to refer to NEC Article 90.1 (C), and call a qualified, licensed electrical contractor to trouble-shoot this problem. Think of how degrading it would be to have to answer a hail as for an electrical fire at your own house.
Besides, all of the firefighters I know are plumbers, don't you know marine & electricity don't mix?
Retest the voltage from the bad breaker to the nonpartisan and from the main breaker on both legs to ground. Some where on earth you have misread the voltage. Test respectively main leg to the indeterminate buss and then tryout the bad circuit to the independent buss. If you still get 0 volts on the fruitless breaker to the neutral buss, any the breaker is bad within the circuit or you lost one leg of the feed. You read 120 v to the ground and zilch to the neutral, so what you articulate is the neutral is not grounded. This is ridiculous provided the panel was wired correctly.