New dampen electric fire problem...no hot river.? I just installed a unknown electric water furnace this morning. (It's replacing...
I just installed a unknown electric water furnace this morning. (It's replacing one that was leak.) Anyway, it's a relatively simple job...or so I estimate...I got everything connected and two hours next, the water coming out of it is still rime cold.
It's a 50-gallon Whirlpool Energy Saver model and has a self-diagnostic element on the top. There's a single green LED on the unit that glow solid when everything's "okay" and blinks if there's a problem. It's glowing solid green. No blinks.
I bled the atmosphere out of the system when filling the cistern and the voltage requirements are exactly the same beside the new component as the one I replaced. I have definitely no idea what could be going on here, as the component is obviously getting power and is patently full (pressure is fine at the faucet).
Thanks in credit...
Answers: Have you actually measured the voltage? An LED and electronics don't require much power at adjectives to run. I wouldn't put much faith within their diagnostic unit.
Turn bad the power and open the covers where on earth the elements are and see if the wires are actually connected.
If they are, hoist one wire from one screw on the feature and measure near an ohm meter to see if there is continuity. Its not unheard of to find dead elements from the factory.
The approach the thermostat works it first sends power to the top element. Once the top thermostat is self-righteous it turns off and sends power to the lower feature. Once the lower element is content it just turns bad. Water comes in the bottom and forces hot dampen out the top. The lower thermostat will turn the lower element on but if the hose at the upper thermostat gets low adequate the upper thermostat will turn off the lower factor and turn on the upper.
This is why if your upper element is fruitless you have no hot hose. The upper element can not warmth the water to switch the thermostat to dispatch power to the lower element. If you merely have somewhat bit of hot water its in recent times the lower element is out.
First I would check to see if I have proper voltage at the terminals. You probably enjoy wirenuts so be careful and stick the probes up into the wirenuts and guess the voltage applied to the heater.
Now after you own tested the elements for continuity with the power past its sell-by date, screw the wire stern down on the element and check for voltage here after turning the power backbone on.
Be sure to check from terminal to terminal on the elements. The top one should be on first.
If you have no power here, help yourself to a look at the upper thermostat. Make sure all the wires are connected to it. If they are not, turn the power past its sell-by date and follow the diagram to reconnect them. If they are connected you probably have a doomed to failure thermostat from the factory.
I don't know what to tell you something like the fancy diagnostic unit and doesn`t matter what else is associated with it. If it have any control over the water oven it may be the problem. Personally I don't like those electronic dodads on such a simple device as a sea heater. It simply adds more things that can mess up and add a lot more expense if you enjoy to replace something.
Just a note. Don't trial from the element terminal to the ground. This will mislead you as the water oven thermostat only switches one leg of the 240V circuit. The other leg runs straight to the part terminals. If you benchmark from any part of the component to the ground you will get 120V. Don't permit this fool you. The circuit will be completed only when the thermostat switches on and 240V will be impressed on the part. With the thermostat switched off the circuit is incomplete and no current will flow even if it have 120V on it.
Hope this helps!
Hey!!! Another David B.... your the 3rd or 4th I've see on here excluding myself!!
Did you hook the water lines backwards?