Can Azaleas survive contained by soil next to a pH of around 6.5? I bought 4 Azaleas recently at a store that be closing (they...
I bought 4 Azaleas recently at a store that be closing (they were really on the cheap and I couldn't sustain myself). I know that they require acidic soil and prefer a pH of around 5.5, but can they survive surrounded by soil that has a pH of 6.0/6.5/7.0?
I mulched surrounded by a bunch of humus last year while preparing the garden bed that I am planting these contained by, and I've heard that this can give support to acidify the clay-heavy soil. It is currently around pH 6.5 or so. However, I'm not sure if the Azaleas can tolerate soil that is simply slightly acidic.
I'd approaching to plant the Azaleas soon since it is fall. Will they be capable of survive in the soil? Also, is nearby an effective approach to lower acidity in a flash? I know you can add Elemental Sulfur to the soil, but I don't know where on earth to buy it or if it is worth applying.
Answers: While a pH of 5.5 is optimal it's difficult achieve it unless you live surrounded by a peat bog. At the Botanical Garden where I work, we own a large garden nouns that has a pH of 6.8-7+ and although our Rhododendrons/Azaleas do grow AND FLOWER, they tend to deed as annuals and die out after a few years. We have researched the problems associated near the site and have found out the following: #1 The soil that be brought in is in the main comprised of clay and very little natural matter. #2 The irrigation system is creating a "raining feet" situation thus encouraging root rots like phytopthora , etc. #3 Our attempts to join organic issue i.e. leaf humus, compost, double-shredded mulch, own done very little to raise/alter the pH of the soil. The drive being, after a pH examination of our various amendments, we realize the average pH of the products was around 6.8-7.0 - one and the same as our soil. Soooo... we have looked into purchasing mulches that can be (eventually) incorporated into the soil such as pine straw, pine nugget, etc. These mulches have a lower pH (exact pH unknown) that should start to (changing soil pH like lightning is very difficult to do -you're chitchat 2-3 years+) lower the pH of the soil as it breaks down. Despite its "Miracle" name, Miracid is within essence, only a immediate fix to plants. Do you want to be buying Miracid every 3 months for the next 10 years? Probably not. We are using aluminum sulfate and iron sulfate to drop the soil pH. I cogitate Espoma makes it, or I could be wrong on the pet name. It comes in those wan bags (at your garden center). Just don't OD on the stuff.
So to sum up adjectives my ramblings, I would recommend that you do the following:
1.) Dig your hole in the amended bed you mentioned
2.) Amend the soil beside a humusy rich supplement but work a little bit of the virgin soil wager on into the mix
3.) Plant the plants (high if the soil is still high surrounded by clay)
4.) In the spring add an life general/acid fertilizer (something with a ratio of around 5-3-4) near a little of the aforementioned aluminum/iron. Follow the directions on the backpack and repeat as directed.
5.) Make sure they receive enough marine, but DO NOT OVER WATER and waterlog the soil for long periods of time. Remember, ANY plant within the Ericaceae family as a standard rule of thumb, do no like WET FEET! ..so plant them dignified if necessary. Good luck.
OH I purely notice that you suggested elemental sulfur.. don't use it because its break down time is much slower than my recommended products...(according to a lab)
http://groups.myspace.com/HARDCOREHORTIC...
You can take sulfur at any pharmacy. Miracid (from the Miracle-Gro people) works very other on azaleas and rhododendrons.