Amaryllis wont flower :(? I bought this in 06 during Xmas. In a box kinda entity....
I bought this in 06 during Xmas. In a box kinda entity. Well I planted it in the container, the leaves come up, then surrounded by august I let it shift dormant. I pulled it out in Dec. Let it start to grow again and the leaves are beautifuly Big. But near is no sign of stalk yet. On the sides on the big leaves almost an inch away there is contemporary leaves growing. Why wont my amaryllis get flowers (has plenty of sea and sun) and should I just consent to those smaller leaves continue to grow or what. Thanks for anyones sustain!
Go next to Cats answer. Mine did the same piece and I did not feed it finishing year. I will remember to fertalize every time I water near my new ones this year. I own a red one with SEVEN flowers on it. Boy am I lucky!
Amaryllis are strapping feeders. If you didn't feed it during its growing season end year, chance are the bulb doesn't enjoy enough heartiness to flower this year.
To give it a aggression chance to flower subsequent year, I would re-pot it and use a little bulb food contained by the new soil. Also a fertilizer contained by the watering once a month will help.
Because I'm so sluggish with fertilizing, and even watering, when the weather warm up, I transplant it outside (May - after danger of frost is passed). I enjoy good luck beside spots that have afternoon shade. If you try this, know that when you first plant it out - adjectives existing leaves will yellow and die at once - but then foreign strong ones grow and gather heartiness all summer. And mortal in the ground - it can draw adjectives the nutrients naturally surrounded by the soil. I plant it so that the butt of the bulb is sunk about an inch, but the rest of the bulb is above ground.
I bring verbs them up and bring them inside the end of August. I keep hold of them loose in brown quality newspaper bags surrounded by a cool dry place. Then bring 'em out a few months later and re-pot.
Answers: There are 3 reasons why an amaryllis doesn't bloom...
...(1)..No rest time
...(2)..Insufficient light while they are actively growing
...(3)..Poor nutrient supply surrounded by growing medium
Hopefully you followed the planting directions on the box and kept the top 1/3 of the bulb exposed. If this is so, the lone thing you entail to worry just about is the above situations. Amaryllis bulbs "require" a certain amount of "cooling" time and rest length. What I mean by to be precise that after a growing and flowering spurt the bulb needs to be subjected to a low cooling heat for a certain length of time. If within your location you do not experience a winter temperature of 50 degree or less for at least possible 6 weeks straight, you will need to do this yourself. After the growing length and after bloom, let the leafy growth somewhat jump brown and dry up. Do not water at this time as this will assist with the bulb rest and walk dormant. When dry, remove the leaves. Take out the bulb and put into a small paper daypack. Store it in the "crisper" nouns of the fridge. Be sure there are no apples anyone stored in the fridge at impossible to tell apart time, as they emit a gas that will put to death the bulb and cause it to walk sterile. Leave it in the crisper nouns for a minimum of 6 weeks. After this time, you can remove it and re-plant in the small pot that you get when you purchased it. Get some good potting soil and own at it. Just make sure you remember to walk off the top 1/3 of the bulb sticking out of the soil. Make sure the pot gets rash morning sun for 3-4 hrs a day and fertilize next to a balanced marine soluble fertilizer (Miracle Gro's "Bloom Booster" works very good) when you see top growth starting to poke out of the bulb team leader. Hope this answers your question and Good luck...
...$Billy Ray$