How much concrete will I have need of for this shed? The shed is going to be 120 " x 140 " and...
The shed is going to be 120 " x 140 " and I guess like 4 " thick. Home Depot have 80lbs bags for like 5$ a pop so how frequent do you guys think i would need? Also, When lay the foundation should the concrete be like 2 " under the ground and 2 " above ground or is 4 " too have an idea that all together. I have built sheds contained by the past but never layed a concrete foundation. Just want to build my dad a really nice one while he is gone on a work trip.
Volume is 120"x140"x4" cubic inches, divided by 1728 cubic inches per cubic foot = 38.89 cubic feet divided by 27 cubic foot per cubic yard = 1.44 cubic yards (say 1.5).
The heaps will probably tell you how much mixed concrete to expect from each one. Considering the size of the loads, it'll probably be in cubic feet, so divide 39 cubic foot by the volume in cubic feet per pod to get the number of bags. Round it up to the nearest undamaged bag, and get a couple more for insurance. You don't want to run short.
However, this is a big pour. I don't cogitate you can realistically expect to mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow fast adequate to get it screeded and finished before the first loads start setting up. I'd enunciate you'll need a portable mixer of at least 1/2 CY (and that sounds huge for a portable to me), plus some backing. You'll need at least 2 race to do the screeding, and at least 1 of you needs to know how to finish concrete.
Do you enjoy a truck? You might do better buying concrete directly from a plant, and renting a towable "buggy" like this: http://www.bartelsequipment.com/images/2... . They hold about 2 yard and have a dump function (which you can see in the picture). You'll be capable of pour much faster, without having to stop and mix every individual shoulder bag, so you can concentrate on screeding and finishing instead.
And 4" thick is fine for a shed (my 10'x20' shed is on a 4" slab). Having all 4" above position is fine, too. Just make sure the site is level and compacted.
Dude . I use this site for most calculation .http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/... . don`t forget to have at least 4" of gravel beneath it for drainage. Never put the pad under the class for water problems . I would put it at least 3" above status. My 12'x 16 ' shed is at grade at the back and 6" above contained by the front with 6" of 3/4 gravel underneath and I used a steel mesh at 1" and 3" to prevent cracking . But I also have to treaty with temp swings from -20c in the winter to over +30 within the summer. 8 years old and no cracks yet you will have need of two qubic years four inchs under ground .hubby does it for a living.
Answers: I wondering why you want a a solid slab for a shed. Is this going to be stick-built by hand or purchased, deliver and set in place? I've done sheds that merely rest on concrete piers with floor framing. You release on money, materials, labor and time by propping up the structure on pads and piers. Plus,the structure is higher past its sell-by date the ground to avoid rot from the elements and bug infestations.
Go to the Sakrete website and use their online materials calculator at: http://www.sakrete.com If you're going the solid slab route, you should consider forming and pouring short stub walls to raise the structure above grade. This could also be done near CMU's laid on top of the cured slab with mortar. Remember to prep the slab nouns with plenty of tamped gravel or stone dust and permit any excavated dirt settle before pouring concrete. Use reinforcing wire mesh contained by your slab or rebar and be sure to damp cure the pour for a week or so with a burlap cover and an occassional sprinkler to preserve the concrete damp.
Hauling and mixing bags to a pour is a hassle. You should check out your local redi-mix company for a price quote and a distribution. Trust me...it's great when a truck loaded with redi-mix drives up to your pour and you'e done with the total mesh in about 10 minutes. It's worth the extra money!
Good luck