Firewood splitting wth wooden wedge? my grandfather in the 60's/70's use to split his firewood with...
my grandfather in the 60's/70's use to split his firewood with a maul/steel wedge/and a wooden block. ...is it a lost art/practice? I am trying to find some information on how to on this info...I know the basics of he use to drive something like a steel collar on a straight shaft, but what type of wood?dry or drizzling?...etc...nobody I ask seems to know what I am talking something like...any info would be appreciated..
I split many cords of wood in WA, state, mostly Oak for an indoor wood burner. I used a metal Maul, when the Ax. wouldn't work, using the Hammer side of the ax.
The issue near WOODEN wedges is that they should at least be a hardwood, and will still splinter. If you use a Maul ample you'll notice mushrooming the wide/head end.
I enjoy no info on the rest of your Q however, steel collar, straight shaft??
Wood to Burn, most especially indoors, should always be hardwoods, OAK being the most adjectives. Soft woods/ Conifers are not acceptable for indoor burning.
Obviously seasoned/Dry wood is not only better for fires, but easier to split. Wood stoves/heaters give the impression of being to be extremely trendy, no matter where one lives, but I am constantly amazed by relations who create huge supplies, covered outside, by tarps, or even roofed over, open sheds.
Just my two "sense"
Added thought: Certainly there are power driven, hydraulic SPLITTERS.
While I'm not as outmoded as your granddad I still split wood this way.
I first cut the un-split log into fireplace lengths (about 24 inches) and later stand the cut log on end. I then position the steel block in the center of the log holding it by hand while drumming it with wedge until until it (the wedge) have sunk into the log about 3 inches or enough that it is into the surface and supports itself.
At this point strike the block as hard as you can with the maul driving the block into the log. Keep driving the wedge in until the log splits within two. Depending on the size of the log (diameter) and the type wood being split you can often split the log next to one wedge. On larger diameter logs and some twisted grain woods you may call for two wedges.
If you drive the wedge adjectives the way until the head of the block is even with the surface of the log you will need a second block. Your granddad may have used a wooden wedge for this purpose.
Stick the second block into the split already created by the first wedge, but as far down into the split as possible, Drive it in to further enlarge the split and the log will divide.
Continue splitting the log halves until you get the size pieces you need.
You will savour doing this.
Answers: What you are referring to is a glut.
Wood is used for more than fuel.
It was not uncommon for woodworkers
who worked wood green
- to be precise undried,
unseasoned,
fresh from felling
still high contained by "bound" water content
to split trunks into "bolts"
with a glut - a wooden block used
specifically for splitting or riving wood
See:
http://countryworkshops.org/Glossary.htm...
http://www.greenwoodworking.com/
http://www.living-wood.co.uk/
for more information
Don't know what your grandfather did for a living
but I see no reason why he couldn't have used
a glut for splitting firewood as it works fine for lumber
While the answers above are correct, most antediluvian time wood splitting was done after the wood had seasoned or the temps be low enough to freeze the wood. Makes splitting a whole lot easier. the wooden wedge were made of oak.