Any tips on lay plaster board? I'm fixing plaster board to a stud wall which will then be...
I'm fixing plaster board to a stud wall which will then be skimmed with plaster. Any tips on how to position, lay the board. It is square edge board and i'm fixing it with black dry wall screws. My most important querie is do i lay the plaster board horizontally or vertically (it is in oblong sections). And do i stagger the edges as in brickwork. Thanks totally much.
I may be wrong but if you are skimming the boards they should be fixed beside the feather edge facing outwards. The joint are then covered with scrim cartridge and then plastered over. They should be fixed with plasterboard nail that just make a dent surrounded by the board without puncturing the paper lode. It doesnt matter how they are laid H or V but should be staggered to avoid long joints. They stipulation to join on the battens fairly than in between battens, Smudgeuk, fix the boards vertically, within is no need to stagger them. Fix them with the whiter side surrounded by, and before skimming fix your skimming tape. One tip.label sure that the first board you fix is vertically plumb, before fixing any more. Be sure all electrics are within place,
if you lay them vertically you probably wont need to stagger the joints as the boards are probably floor to ceiling distance from the ground anyway. if you fit them horizontally, you should stagger the joints, as a long continuous join may head to the skim coat cracking along the entire length of the join. shorter join shorter potential crack. I would walk with vertical as there will be a stud down the entire edge. I always fix the boards across the joist starting from the ceiling first and I always stagger the boards.When I was an a apprentice We be told to leave a one eight joint between the joint to allow for movement.This is rarely done these days due to improvments surrounded by self adhesive scrim etc.Put a screw in every 150 to 200mm.Cut the joint nice and square.The reason for staggering is to reduce cracks running down the joist.Only in small areas would I fix the boards upright..
Vertically is best, and if you put proper jointing stroke and filler on the joints then the plasterer should own no problem at all and finish the job within one full sweep. dont think it would make a difference how u do it if u are skimming them afterwards u do realise theres an art to plastering x right luck anyways
Put the boards on which ever way you get the lowest waste,the edges need to be on the battons, it doesn't event if they go on across long ways or stood up high and you don't stipulation to stagger them but get the edges tight together It doesn't matter witch track you put them on ,but as you say try not to put them on in straight lines but similar to brickwork. This will spawn the plaster less likely to crack .Also use Thistle plaster for boarding.
1] Make sure the existing framework suits the size of
plasterboard ie vertical frames (called studs) should be a
module of 1200mm or at 400 centre.(not 1228mm)
Ditto for horizontal frames which should be at minimum
600mm centres
2] What is ceiling height? Perhaps this would affect which
mode you lay. Otherwise lay whichever is easier for you
to handle safely.
3] You may yearning to consider using a board which is bonded
to insulation if you are on an external wall.
4] You say you will have boards plastered but If you are
wallpapering you may find the narrowed edge
board approach with joint scrimmed and filled by a
competent, experienced decorator is cost effective.
Plastering give best finish and when redecorating comes
along the surface of the plasterboard does not come off
beside the old wallpaper.
5] Was the existing plasterboard foil-backed? If so it may
have be such in order to provide a "fog barrier" to
your timber wall, construction to prevent warm air entering
the wall. cooling and condensing on the timbers and
cause them to rot.
6]a) I suggest you carry out the following before boarding:
Make a measured drawing of your studded wall and of any
services(pipes,cable etc) as you do not want to screw
those.
6]b) Check that all studs are level an plumb
and using a long straight end placed at 3 or 4
horizontal positions edge check that the frames are
aligned . (Otherwise its dips in the wall ..not
handy if the finish is tiles)
6]c) Use your drawing to draw lines on the plasterboard to
indicate the position of the frames bringing up the rear. I find that a
useful precaution is to plot the position of pipes and
services on the plasterboard so that you avoid screwing
into those services.
7] Regarding staggered edges: If you are double sheeting
a screen for sound proofing reasons, consequently manufacturers
recommend staggering overlapping boards. Staggering is
recommended for ceilings.
8] I found that lay a thin piece of wood temporarily on the
floor helped kind it easier to level the boards. The gap
disappeared could be filled withh plaster and coverd by skirting
anyway.
9] Unlike the plastering, It is quite an undemanding job really since
gaps procure taped and filled and edges are metal beaded by
the plasterer. You will requirement a Surform or roughing plane to
dress down any exposed edges of board.
Lay it vertically with the grey side showing if you are going to plaster. employ a plasterer,
Answers: I have done this on quite a little houses and it is a first-class wall, so much nicer than cheap drywall. Short of doing a full-blown plaster-on-lath wall, this solution is a very nice one.
We always hung the board matching as doing drywall, primarily with the boards upright, screwed to the studs next to drywall screws, but the board we used, which was "blue board" (the broadsheet was treated with some charitable of agent that was supposed to aid bonding and gave it the blue color) did own edges relieved for joints. We used the mesh tape on the joint.
As to the skim coating, that is a job that requires a dignified level of skill. I've tried it, on smaller jobs, approaching, say, one wall or some repairs and I can tell you that it's not for the DIY'er. I hope that you're going to hire a TRUE plasterer to do this.