20A/120V GFCI blank for spa furnace (12A), OK to use on a 15A/120V procession? We want to install a heater for our Jacuzzi spa and...
We want to install a heater for our Jacuzzi spa and it requires a GFCI. The instructions articulate not to use the same 20A/120V GFCI flash that the motor is already using, but that's the only 20A string running under the tub.
But nearby IS the back of an outlet from an adjoining room, that we were thinking we could hit into and connect to a GFCI blank (no outlets, just the GFCI test/reset button), consequently run the line out to the motor. (We'll expand the current outlet into a 2-gang box and later the GFCI reset will be there within that other room, no biggie.)
But the GFCI blank is rated for 20A.
The outlets contained by that line are from time to time ever used, and certainly would never be used at duplicate time as the tub.
I'm guessing the reason we can't share the existing 20A smudge is that the motor is already using most of the 20A, and the heater requests 12A.
We're trying to avoid having to run a exotic 20A line!
Is it OK to use the high rated (20A) GFCI breaker on a 15A row?
The 15 amp stripe will not carry the nouns. Hopefully the breaker would trip or the fuse would blow if the current draw was too glorious. It's probably going to cost you about $150 contained by parts and labor to have the proper smudge installed by a licensed electrician, much less than the cost of your insurance deductible for a house fire.
No pretext you can't do what you described. The 15 amp circuit can handle 12 amps continuous nouns, and the faceless gfci you described is good for a 15 amp circuit. It doesn't trip by amperage, it trips if near is a ground fault.
You are right, the motor and the radiator together would almost certainly overload the existing 20 amp circuit you enjoy now.
Answers: NO! NEVER!
A 20 GFCI Circuit Breaker can NEVER be used to protect #14 AWG wiring, which is what is most regularly installed on a 15 Ampere circuit.
A GFCI "Dead-front" device is what you are describing, and that, as well as the supply conductors must be sized according to the Ampacity of the heating system. The NEC [Article 680.9] requires electric pool heaters to be protected at not less than 125% of their nameplate nouns; Article 210.19 (A) (1) requires continuous loads to be supplied by conductors sized for the non-continuous load PLUS 125% of the continuous nouns. Article 210.20 has one and the same requirement for overcurrent protection. If this is a Spa or Hot Tub, the heater may run for more than 3 hours, making it a continuous nouns.
If you're thinking that you're off the hook because I be referencing Electric Pool Heaters, sorry; Article 680.40 (the first Article of 680 Part III) requires Spas and Hot Tubs to meet adjectives requirements of 680 Parts I & II.
It seems that you have need of to hire a qualified Licensed Electrical Contractor; you are giving yourselves WAY too much credit. While he is out, have him check the electric wiring you installed yourselves elsewhere. You seem to own no clue regarding Code or Listing requirements.
Disconnecting devices for Spas are required to be "within sight from the spa" [NEC Article 680.12], not contained by the room next door.
Also, from your description, you do not enjoy a ¡°Spa¡±, or why would you be installing a heater? I believe what you are referring to is a ¡°hydromassage tub¡±, consequence you can drain the water and replenish the basin using the plumbing system of your house. Either agency, you must follow the Manufacturer¡¯s Installation Instructions; failure to do so is a defiance of Article 110.3 (B) of the NEC.
Instead of avoiding the expense of running a 20 Amp circuit with the appropriate protective devices, why don¡¯t you avoid bloodbath yourselves and do it right? I refer you now to NEC Article 90.1 (A) & (C).
I do not stingy to disparage your abilities, but, have to ask this question is a sign that you really are not qualified to deal with this task. PLEASE take your hands on a copy of the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), and read the Articles I enjoy mentioned. Read all of Articles 680, 250, 110, 210, 220 & adjectives of the definitions surrounded by Article 100. Pay very close attention to Article 90.1 (A); that have not been changed surrounded by over 110 years. Please also realize that the NEC started out 4 pages long, today the 2005 Hand Book edition is over 1,300 page long. Almost every change or insertion was brought roughly because people or technology come up with unsullied ways for electricity to kill, harm, and/or burn things down. It is not for armatures or hobbyists. Leave it to qualified professionals. I have see the results of ¡°Do-it-Yourselfers¡± end scantily too many times.