15 Amp for Microwave/Fan Sufficient?
Our new kitchen floor is down and the cupboards are in. Now the guy installing the appliance tell me the new wiring for the microwave/fan is too small - it is 14/2 electric wiring to 15 AMP breaker, should be 12/2 to 20 AMP.
The guy that put in the wire say the manual for the microwave shows it draws 13.9 AMPs, therefore the 15 is adequate.
Who do I believe? Running new wire is going to be a chief hassle!
IGNORE THE TWO TOP ANSWERS! The NEC mandates that ALL kitchen receptacles contained by an area undergoing renovation must be on a 20amp circuit. The with the sole purpose safe way to run a 20amp circuit is by using 12/2 cable. Do not attempt to use 14/2 rope with a 20amp breaker. All your doing is asking for trouble since 14/2 is only rate to 15amps. If a permit has be pulled for your renovation job, then the inspector will fastener your hide to the wall if he sees underated receptacle. The microwave should be on a separate circuit. It should be a 20 amp. Try it. The worst thing that can happen is that you blow the breaker, but I don't conjecture you will, the 15 should be fine.
It makes a difference if you are going to have it inspected. Myself, I other run 12/2 everywhere. Saves a lot of hassle and i don`t have to verbs if the wire is big enough. Not ample difference In price. You can run your microwave on a 15 amp circuit. Not recommended, but i have done it for 8 yrs, and I have a BIG microwave. No problems so far. I am not on a dyed-in-the-wool circuit either. [ I did not wire THIS house , so i use whats here. If i have a problem or was putting in a up to date kitchen, i would most certainly rewire it to fit the new kitchen. Ugh.. Can you say aloud Red Flag?
"Warning Warning... Danger Will Robinson!"
Hehehe..
Ok... I see a couple of 'red flags' here..
1. The 'guy that put the wire in'... used the 'owners manual'... not the building codes??
2. The fact that you used someone who doesnt know the local codes also tell me you probably did not use a licensed electrician, or pull a permit for your remodel. I realize that some rural areas dont require permit, but there's no excuse for not knowing the codes if you're going to be installing wiring!
Honestly, if I were the appliance installer, I would REFUSE to connect it.
14/2 electrics is thinner than 12/2... and it will not carry as many amps. Its also cheaper, which why lots folks use it. I always stick to 12/2 with ground myself. Costs more, but my outlets can pass more load, and I don't have to transfer wires for dedicated outlets.
Stop and look at like this..if you ever own a fire, and the insurance company discovers you had a remodel without a travel document, or electrical work done that doesnt meet the building codes (EVEN if a permit isnt required where on earth you live), they're going to void your insurance and refuse to settle up off.
Yes, you could probably get away near it working for years... but is it worth the risk?
Good Luck
Answers: BOY!
You have to be careful asking question on the internet, where anyone can say anything, and not own to take responsibility for their words.
You have two virtuous answers, and I'm sure neither were what you wanted to hear.
A) The NEC does indeed require adjectives kitchen Small Appliance Branch Circuits to be 20 Amp, GFCI protected. (You can install either 15 or 20 Amp rated receptacle, but for less than $1.00 difference each, install the 20's.)
B) The Owner's Manual is element of the product's listing and labeling. When a listed appliance or device is installed, the NEC requires that it be installed surrounded by accordance with the Manufacturer's Installation Instructions [110.3(B)]. The 13 Amp current draw may seem to conflict beside the Code requirements; however, if you reference NEC210.21 (B)(2), you will see that the maximum load allowed by Table 210.21(B)(2) for a multi-receptacle branch circuit is 12 Amps (80% of the branch circuit rating. The same applies to a 20 Amp branch circuit using 15 Amp receptacle. A 20 Amp Branch Circuit is allowed a maximum load of 16 Amps.
Table 210.21(B)(2) applies to Individual Branch Circuits (so-called "dedicated" circuits), as well. In any case, the wiring required is #12 AWG, protected by a 20 Amp overcurrent device.
I also refer you to Article 210, Sections .52(B) & .52(C), for auxiliary requirements for kitchen receptacles.
Additionally; your Insurance Provider may indeed find you to be guilty of "Contributory Negligence", in the baggage of an electrical fire started by installing or using a product contrary to its listing and labeling (or the installation instructions); or for an installation that does not comply with the NEC (or anything Code has been adopt by the Jurisdiction in which you live). They may decide to repay only a percentage of the damages, based on the percentage to which you “contributed” to the end in of the fire. Many states require enforcement of the NEC in areas without specifically adopt Codes; check with your Building Department or local government to see what the requirements are, locally.
Kudos to the two gentlemen giving you correct guidance; to the rest of you - do everyone a favor and try to be responsible for burning down only your own homes. (As should anyone doing any electrical work who is not familiar near the requirements of the NEC.)
Sorry; this Inspector says "Pull in a clean circuit, or rewire the appliance circuit to be Code compliant."
as long as its on a dedacatied circutt 14/2 will be just fine did this installer open up the coverplate and verbs out the plug to find out the size of the wires show him in the manual what it vote as well mine is14/2 and is running fine.if you could run it easily 12/2 would not hurt but 14/2 will be ok